Opium, a fragrance of character from Yves Saint Laurent
Also, such was the case of the Opium perfume, created in 1977, and being to this day one of the most controversial but also the most adored juices in history. Focus on this legend of perfumery that we never tire of rediscovering.
The Opium controversy
Opium is a shocking name for a perfume. It instantly breaks taboos, opens the doors of the imagination but also those of the forbidden. “If I chose Opium as a name,” affirmed Yves Saint-Laurent, “it is because I intensely hoped that it could, through all its incandescent powers, release divine fluids, magnetic waves, eye-catchers and the charms of seduction which give birth to mad love ”. Anyway, this one did not go unnoticed, being at the same time the source of an immense noise like that of a lot of followers. He was the first juice to dare to display a direct connotation to drugs. Opium is a revolution on its own which dared to tackle the themes of sex, transgression and the illegal. Supreme enchantment for some, totally exuberant for others, some countries even saw fit to ban it when it was released. And yet, all these controversies only spoke of him better. Barely a month after its launch, all European retailers were out of stock for the Opium fragrance. What is more, since 1986 it was accompanied by a slogan that could not be clearer: “Opium, a perfume of dependence” . Today, far from the tumults of yesteryear, Op ium remains an exceptional fragrance with unparalleled magnetism. Its addiction is such that it has thus continued its notoriety until our contemporary time. all European retailers were out of stock of the Opium perfume. What is more, since 1986 it was accompanied by a slogan that could not be clearer: “Opium, a perfume of dependence”. Today, far from the tumults of yesteryear, Opium remains an exceptional fragrance with unequaled magnetism. Its addiction is such that it has thus continued its notoriety until our contemporary time. all European retailers were out of stock of the Opium perfume. What is more, since 1986 it was accompanied by a slogan that could not be clearer: “Opium, a perfume of dependence”. Today, far from the tumults of yesteryear, Opium remains an exceptional fragrance with unparalleled magnetism. Its addiction is such that it has thus continued its notoriety until our contemporary time.
The intoxicating and spicy scent of Yves Saint-Laurent
These are two perfumers who are at the origin of the development of this perfume, namely Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Raymond Chaillan. Together, they came up with a complex juice that required months of work and many trials. Opium begins with a fresh citrus scent combining Italian mandarin, lemon, orange peel and bergamot. What is more, the whole is punctuated by several spices of which cloves and coriander largely dominate. Then, a particularly floral heart takes place. This combines rose, lily of the valley and carnation. The plum enriches this essence with its sassy and juicy side. Finally, the Opium background is surprisingly powerful. It combines pepper and chili with the smoothness of vanilla and Siamese benzoin. Patchouli, cedar and vetiver bring more mystery here, while Opium leaves behind a smooth trail of sandalwood. Its animality comes from the presence of castoreum. Opium thus becomes a perfume in perfect harmony with the skin.
& nbsp; In 1977, Yves Saint Laurent once again shocks the population, in particular the bourgeoisie with “Opium”, a perfume with a sulfurous name which incites debauchery. Even if it is banned in several countries upon its release, “Opium” remains the greatest success of the Yves Saint Laurent house. Imaginative, sensual, revolutionary, “Opium” immediately seduces and the brand quickly runs out of stock. Certain perfumes influence an entire life and become such cult “objects”. This is the case with “Opium”.
Opium, an oriental juice made by two talented perfumers
In the 1970s, Yves Saint Laurent dreamed of an oriental perfume that would evoke “Flowers of fire, explosions of red, yellow and blue”…
It is to Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Raymond Chaillan that ‘he then entrusted the task, and to whom we owe “& nbsp; Opium & nbsp;”, this essence which made so much speak about it. Jean-Louis Sieuzac started his career with the Roure company, which has now become Givaudan. Jean-Louis Sieuzac is a very talented perfumer who does not like to be talked about. We owe him great perfumes like “& nbsp; Fahrenheit & nbsp;” by Dior or even “& nbsp; Bel Ami & nbsp;” of Hermes. Raymond Chaillan was born in Nice and was intended for scientific studies. He started with Antoine Chiris, a small perfumer from Grasse. From 1995 to 1997, Raymond Chaillan was appointed President of the Société Française des Parfumeurs. We also owe him very beautiful fragrances such as “& nbsp; Anaïs Anaïs & nbsp;” by Cacharel or “Boucheron pour Homme” by Boucheron. Both decided to create an oriental fragrance with floral and spicy notes… One of the greatest successes in the history of perfumery.
The smell of scandal
For the choice of the name, Yves Saint Laurent explains & nbsp; “& nbsp; If I chose Opium as a name, it is because I intensely hoped that it could, through all its powerful incandescents, release the divine fluids, the magnetic waves, the eye-catchers and the charms of seduction which give birth to mad love “. Unfortunately “& nbsp; Opium & nbsp;” was considered an incitement to sex, drugs and debauchery. As for its composition, it must be said that it is unique. It begins with the tangy freshness of orange, as well as the lightness of aldehydes. Freshness and lightness are immediately contrasted by coriander. The heart of “& nbsp; Opium & nbsp;” is ultra feminine because flowery with the help of ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose. These floral tones are also enhanced with cinnamon, a Middle Eastern spice that contrasts with the flowery heart. Finally, the base of “Opium” is sensual, powerful and almost masculine. Indeed, it combines vanilla, benzoin from Siam, patchouli (symbol of freedom), and opoponax (which is a resin extracted from a shrub, which is found mainly in the Middle East and whose l ‘smell is similar to that of myrrh).
Much more than a simple perfume , “Opium” is, and will remain an ode to freedom… The brand’s greatest success is also the favorite perfume of thousands of women…